A BIT OF ROMANCE

(Tuesday) We have left Hue for Hoi An. On our ride there we stop at Marble Mountain just outside of Da Nang. It was also used as a hospital but does not have an internal structure like the first one we saw. Instead, many of the caves are homes to statues and sites of worship. There was even a monk meditating on a rock.

I've anticipated coming to Hoi An since this town is one of Southeast Asia's oldest silk ports. There are tailors every where you turn. It's the best place to have clothes made. The town is absolutely romantic. The buildings have a French influence and glow with beauty. Some expose bricks beneath the tethered surface. The soft hues of yellow, orange and red line the streets and glow in the dim lights of the silk lanterns. The river houses many small wooden boats. Restaurants and shops are sprawled along the river. Each extends a warm invitation. There are street carts and a bridge to cross the river. Along the bridge are more silk lanterns that lead to more restaurants and shops.
Many of us had lunch together before heading over to Hillary's friend to have clothes made. Many of us bought sarongs in villages throughout Thailand and Laos to have made into clothes here. I had three gorgeous sarongs as well as some other ideas for dresses. One sarong was bright green so I had it made into a simple A-line skirt. The rest of the fabric was used to be made into two small clutches. Another sarong was made into a one-should dress. I absolutely love it despite the alternative neckline. I wanted a straight line, but it was made into more of a curve. Oh well! The last sarong was made into a beautiful strapless cocktail dress. The colors are so bold! The dress fits my body like a glove, and it is spectacular! She did such a good job with these! I also had two green dresses made. One was chiffon and open backed while the other was a silk wrap dress. The chiffon is not my favorite and something must be done with the front, but the back is exactly as I wanted. The silk one is nice and can be great with the right pair of heels!  Either way, the work that went into the dresses was tremendous.
After my first fitting, I decided to get a massage. I thought I was paying for an Aroma Therapy Massage. Instead I received a Vietnamese lady straddling me and drowning me in oil. The only benefit of the massage was having my back cracked.

These were all made in Hoi An

Also made in Hoi An

In the evening Isabel, Madeleine, Sam and I walked around. We found a woman selling some small snacks from a basket. We tried a few samples and bought some treats. She had coconut shavings in powdered sugar that reminded me of a marshmallow. I miss marshmallows so much! We also purchased some banana chips because they were not as sweet as normal banana chips. They were good. Isabel and I were craving some street food so we wandered the streets. Before crossing the bridge we got some grilled corn. The woman covered it in a chili sauce before putting it on the grill again. The flavor was sweet and salty despite the overcooked texture. We crossed the river searching for more Bahn Myu. Isabel asked a lady selling jewelry and she pointed to the left. After a few minutes of wandering we saw a street stand with a little old lady. The both of us ordered a sandwich and walked around. It was the best sandwich I have ever had! The flavors were so intense and luscious. There was a mixture of herbs and spices, sweet chili sauce, meets and vegetables on a warm baguette. We tried to find some Bahn Boa but could only find White Rose. The Bahn Myu was so good that we ended up going back for seconds. The lady was so nice!!! For dessert we went to a restaurant along the river. Everything looked amazing. After going back-and-forth several times, we settled on some Chocolate Cheesecake. Although it did not taste like cheesecake, it melted in our mouths. The dessert was delectable. Off to bed after this.

(Wednesday) Today was a free day. We enjoyed breakfast on the terrace by the pool and fields. It was a great way to start the day. There was a nice spread with fresh fruits, baguettes, freshly made eggs, pancakes, meats, etc. Of course there was drip coffee with sweet milk, my favorite. After breakfast a few of us rented bikes. Although they were old, they functioned just fine. We filled the baskets in the front with fresh fruits and sandwiches that we got at the market that morning. The market was intense and crowded. There was such a variety of products. We decided to get local fruits and of course Bahn Myu. Then we rode to the beach. The path was straight. At times we passed through villages, but my favorite part was riding through the rice fields. The colors were intense. The green rice fields contrasted against the blue sky. There were no clouds today only sunshine. Finally, after 10 days the sun decided to play.
The beach we went to was further away from town and therefore less crowded. We laid our sarongs along the sand and soaked up the sun. The water was the perfect temperature. A few of us ran in and savored the taste of salt water against our lips. "We are swimming in the Red China Sea!" I proclaimed. It felt so good to say these words. We all said it a few times to remind ourselves where we were. A surreal moment. The afternoon was lovely.
In the late afternoon, I rode back by myself. I did not mind; in fact, I enjoyed it. The sun was still warm and the breeze was cool. My mind wandered to the rice fields and the people along the streets. The ride was pleasant as I felt a sense of calmness. A cold shower followed before I was off to get sized for my dresses. 
Tonight for dinner, Isabel, Anna, Sam and I signed up for a Vietnamese cooking class. We were joined by three other travelers. The food was scrumptious, but the cooking class was more a prep class than anything. It was mildly disappointing especially in comparison to the one we took in Thailand. The head chef went over the recipes we were "cooking." First we did a fish cooked in a banana leaf. For that, each of us minced a different vegetable or herb. Then, myself and one other guy pounded the ingredients together to release some of the juices. She said I was stronger than him, but I like to think I just know what I'm doing in the kitchen. We were given small cutting boards and a steak knife. What chef cuts with a steak knife? It's almost a mockery to be given such useless tools. Anyways, she then put the fish on the banana leaves and showed us how to fold it properly. Her assistants came and took it away to be cooked.
The rest of the meals were done in a similar fashion. We grated vegetables, watched a bit, then her assistants took it away. The good news is, we had a great dinner. It included spring rolls which we were all able to roll one ourselves. There was also the fish, white rose (local dumplings), fried wontons (also a local specialty) and my favorite, beef salad. Of course I loved the beef salad because the meat was marinated in garlic, and the dressing also had a lot of garlic. Again, the food was good, but the class was not. Off to bed in yet another food coma.

(Thursday) Today is another free day in Hoi An. After breakfast, I walked around the town by myself. I walked with a stupid smile across my face saying, "Hi" to everyone I passed. I was not bothered by women trying to make me clothes or someone offering a manicure for 50 cents. In this town, I simply walk and smile politely. A few times I stop and talk. Some people ask where I am from or how my travels are going. Today, I am on my own schedule and find the time for simple conversations and exchanges of laughter. At one point I see a merchant carving away at some teak wood. I stop and watch him with his permission. His English is fairly good, and we talk for 10 or 15 minutes as I marvel over his work. He is so skilled. He has carved such beautiful things like Buddhas, chop sticks and jewelry boxes. I continue on enjoying the sun and small chatter of others.
I had two more dresses made that turned out to be my favorites. They're fun dresses that I want to wear to the Country Music Fest. I immediately thought about that when I saw them on the manikin. I also had a gorgeous cocktail dress made at a third store. It's perfect for a date night whenever I will actually have one again ;) Isabel and I rent bikes and ride to the beach again. The weather is perfect. I love the darkening of my skin and the company of my book. I laid on my sarong listening to the undertow crashing and reading A Thousand Splendid Suns. A sense of tranquility overcomes me. I've been reading quite a bit this trip. So far I have read Little Bee about a Nigerian refugee, First They Killed My Father a memoir about a Cambodian refugee, A Thousand Splendid Suns about a bastard Afghan child and Are You There Vodka? It's Me, Chelsea a humorous book about a comedian's life. The first three were amazing. I recommend them to be added to anyone's reading list. They were very moving and formed on actual events.
This is a side note, but yesterday on the beach I bought a pair of sunglasses. I had left my black ones on the bus back in Thailand. Since then I have purchased a pair of neon green ones. I love them but sometimes the green is overkill. I thought I should get some black shades so people can take me seriously at times. Within 24 hours I had dropped my new shades and broken them. I just bought another new pair (don't worry they're less than $5) and they are chipped. I see a trend here...
 For dinner we all met by the pool. Each of us brought a snack to share. Those of us who had clothes made wore them. Everyone's items turned out great! We leave Hoi An in the middle of the night. I will be sad to go. This town is so romantic. The reflections in the water, the silk lanterns, the food and the people are all serene. The architecture is full of character. One can't help but be happy here. There's too much to enjoy and such a slow pace to do so. This has been my favorite town thus far. Perhaps one day I will return.