Reading or writing may not exactly be a moment of silence, but in my heart I feel deeply saddened. I feel the need to write about what has happened so close to where I am. Our group has come to Halong Bay to spend some time on an island as well as a boat. Today we were transferring from land to sea. Our boat was detoured and for about an hour we sat in the middle of the bay surrounded by gorgeous limestone. We were informed that a boat had sunk the previous evening. None of us were sure what type of boat it was, but we were told not to be concerned. We were informed that we were being detoured because they were only allowing a few boats to pass at a time. As time went on we received more information. We were told that we would no longer be able to stay on our boat and spend the evening on the water because the boat that sank was a tourist boat. It's the same style boat we were to board. Twelve tourists from various countries died. I feel very saddened. My heart goes out to all their families. They are in my prayers.
It feels so odd and overwhelming having such a tragedy happen so close. That could have been us. Our families could have received a life changing phone call. A part of me is overtaken with guilt. This is the guilt of the fear I have put my own parents through. I make plans with no concern for their fear of me traveling. However, this tragedy is not marked by something commonly feared like sex trafficking. Instead, it is marked by the pleasure of sleeping in a cabin on the sea. This activity is so common and a huge tourist attraction in the Halong Bay area. I'm sorry for all the fears that I have caused. I can't imagine the pain that the families will face. I will keep them all in my prayers.
http://news.yahoo.com/s/afp/20110217/wl_asia_afp/vietnamtourismaccident
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
VALENTINE'S DAY
Happy Valentine's Day! I'm usually the last person to wish that, but I'm feeling good today. In fact, this has been the best Valentine's Day :) I woke up early in order to eat breakfast and get a sandwich for take-away. Sam, Blair, Noam, Madeleine and I were about to go on a 45k uphill mountain biking adventure. It was quite the experience. The fog had not let up at all. It was still cold outside so we layered up. The bike ride was intense. We were to go up a mountain then down the other side. Before leaving I felt really sick. I think it was because I had just taken my malaria pill, but I felt nauseas. When we began going straight uphill, it kicked in even more. The cold moist air made my chest feel tight. I had to stop for a moment, but I knew I could finish the ride. Madeleine had stopped around the corner, and she was ready to turn around. I convinced her to finish the uphill part; if she still wanted to turn around after the first stretch I wouldn't ask any questions, and we would turn around. Thankfully, she did not want to. A bit into it she felt like she was having an asthma attack and again was uncomfortable. We took a few short minutes and continued biking. We all had faith that she could do it. I'm so glad we didn't turn around because it was awesome. It was intense but good. We continued to ride straight up the mountain. At times it was scary. The fog was so dense you could not see over the cliff. Also, the cars were zooming around the corners with no reguard to anyone else around. We stopped two times for tea and also saw a waterfall. The views were supposed to be amazing, but we could not see anything. It was unfortunate yet our group made it so much fun. My thighs were blazing.
After a few hours we reached the top! Our next task was to go downhill to the other side of the mountain. A sigh of relief might have been appropriate, but downhill was a nightmare. We later described it as miserable fun. It was already cold and wet outside, but soon it began to rain. I was riding downhill with a mixture of snot, rain and tears splashing across my face. The roads were so slippery and most of the path was gravel. The visibility at times was less than 25 feet. This made it nearly impossible to see the upcoming curves let alone traffic. The cars are not required to turn their headlights on, and they drive in the middle of the road. It was scary. I was third in line and at times could not see the first rider. Our hands became numb which made it nearly impossible to grip the brakes. We asked our guide how much longer we had and he said, "One hour." I would rather bike uphill again! I did find some false relief when I thought he said we had 15 more minutes. Unfortunatley, I was quickly informed we still had 15 more kilometers. Oh well. We made the best of it! It was quite fun and miserable at the same time.
At last there was a clearingcould finally see the mountain range and rice fields. I was overcomed with joy. This ride was truly worth it even if we could only enjoy the scenery the last couple of kilometers. I'm enjoying the downhill then all of a sudden I hear my tire rubbing and perhaps going flat. Something gets caught, and my bike spins around. Thankfully I am able to keep my balance and bring it to a stop without falling. The first aid kid that was in my water holder had slipped out and rubbed against my tire then came crashing to the ground. We continued riding down the gravel. There were about 15 minutes left (finally) when I side swiped. My tire got caught, and I knew I was going down. I didn't get hurt because I was able to react fast enough to break my fall. The force of the bike still took me down, but it just filled me with mud. No big deal. I was already extremely dirty! Seconds later Sam did the same thing. She scrapped herself hard and was ready to go back. I distinctly remember her saying , "I don't want to die doing this!" A few deep breaths until we continued forward. We finally reached our destination. The five of us were frozen to the bone but giggling in excitement. That was awesome! We did some jumping jacks, ate some hot soup and then got driven back to our hotel the same route we had just biked. Imagine that. We biked this path just to have lunch. I'm only teasing because it was fantastic.
Since it was Valentine's Day, Hillary made reservations for us at a restaurant across the street. The whole group had dinner together near the fire. We had some wine and just relaxed. Everyone was pretty exhausted from the day's activities. It was a splendid dinner though. I loved the company. Four of us went to get some dessert afterwards. We also bought eight more to take back to the hotel for Blair's 21st birthday! The desserts were rich and decadent. I enjoyed every bite as I have been lately. This was the perfect Valentine's Day :) It was spent the way it should have been: in the company of good friends filled with laughter and love.
After a few hours we reached the top! Our next task was to go downhill to the other side of the mountain. A sigh of relief might have been appropriate, but downhill was a nightmare. We later described it as miserable fun. It was already cold and wet outside, but soon it began to rain. I was riding downhill with a mixture of snot, rain and tears splashing across my face. The roads were so slippery and most of the path was gravel. The visibility at times was less than 25 feet. This made it nearly impossible to see the upcoming curves let alone traffic. The cars are not required to turn their headlights on, and they drive in the middle of the road. It was scary. I was third in line and at times could not see the first rider. Our hands became numb which made it nearly impossible to grip the brakes. We asked our guide how much longer we had and he said, "One hour." I would rather bike uphill again! I did find some false relief when I thought he said we had 15 more minutes. Unfortunatley, I was quickly informed we still had 15 more kilometers. Oh well. We made the best of it! It was quite fun and miserable at the same time.
At last there was a clearingcould finally see the mountain range and rice fields. I was overcomed with joy. This ride was truly worth it even if we could only enjoy the scenery the last couple of kilometers. I'm enjoying the downhill then all of a sudden I hear my tire rubbing and perhaps going flat. Something gets caught, and my bike spins around. Thankfully I am able to keep my balance and bring it to a stop without falling. The first aid kid that was in my water holder had slipped out and rubbed against my tire then came crashing to the ground. We continued riding down the gravel. There were about 15 minutes left (finally) when I side swiped. My tire got caught, and I knew I was going down. I didn't get hurt because I was able to react fast enough to break my fall. The force of the bike still took me down, but it just filled me with mud. No big deal. I was already extremely dirty! Seconds later Sam did the same thing. She scrapped herself hard and was ready to go back. I distinctly remember her saying , "I don't want to die doing this!" A few deep breaths until we continued forward. We finally reached our destination. The five of us were frozen to the bone but giggling in excitement. That was awesome! We did some jumping jacks, ate some hot soup and then got driven back to our hotel the same route we had just biked. Imagine that. We biked this path just to have lunch. I'm only teasing because it was fantastic.
Since it was Valentine's Day, Hillary made reservations for us at a restaurant across the street. The whole group had dinner together near the fire. We had some wine and just relaxed. Everyone was pretty exhausted from the day's activities. It was a splendid dinner though. I loved the company. Four of us went to get some dessert afterwards. We also bought eight more to take back to the hotel for Blair's 21st birthday! The desserts were rich and decadent. I enjoyed every bite as I have been lately. This was the perfect Valentine's Day :) It was spent the way it should have been: in the company of good friends filled with laughter and love.
Monday, February 14, 2011
VIETNAM
The airport in Luang Prabang had one plane and one terminal. We boarded in the late afternoon and an hour later we landed. The service on the flight was fast and cordial. I exchanged money at the aiport and pulled 5,000,000 out of my checking account. Too bad it's only Dong! It still feels nice to hold that much money in my hands Dong or not. When I walked outside I thought I was in Chicago. It was cold, grey and flooded with the sound of horns honking. Soon I spotted the palm trees and realized I was in Hanoi, Vietnam. We took a bus to the old quarters of the city. Then I was sure I was in New York. It was congested, dirty and full of people. The street cafes were a quick reminder that I am still overseas. It's misting rain and cold. Some of us ate at this cafe, and the food was delicious. We drank a lot of hot tea to keep warm. I ate grilled duck for dinner but was sure to leave room for dessert. I tried some young rice ice cream which was interesting and good. Isabel, Sam and I decided to get some snacks for the overnight train so we walked around a bit. Pedestrians are not safe here. People drive crazy and do not stop! It was a bit overwhelming since we have been in Luang Prabang for several days. It's definitely a change of pace. We couldn't find any food for a while. Suddenly we spotted candy and like little kids our giddiness got the best of us. We grabbed handfuls of candy. We were smiling and laughing; Isabel was grabbing pieces saying, "Yummy! Yummy! Yummy!" There were tossings of candies going on. Soon enough our bags were full of chocolates and candies. Our happiness was overwhelming. On our walk back to our bus we ate a lot of candy. Sam and I also purchased something off the street that resembled small coconuts. They were interesting and delicious! Our bus took us to our sleeper train. The vintage train was beautiful, and four of us shared a room. I roomed with Sam, Anna and Noam. Since we ate a lot of candy, Sam and I were bouncing off the walls...literally! We got our roommates to join in the fun and started hanging from our bunks like monkeys. We took some fun pictures and shared a million laughs. The train left about 35 minutes after we boarded. All of us passed out immediately. It was surprisingly comfortable.
Our train arrived at 5:30 in the morning. Another bus met us and took us up the mountain to the village of Sapa. This village is known for it's amazing views. Our hotel in nestled on a slope, but the weather is crap :( It is so foggy; there are no visible views. Since it is cold and rainy, we drink endless amounts of hot lemon water with ginger and honey. Some of us decided to walk around. As soon as we walked out of our hotel the women approached us to buy items. They were all dressed in traditional outfits of their villages. Many of them speak four or five different languages. It was so nice to actually communicate with them. I walked with a few of them who showed us where the restaurant was in which we wanted to have lunch at. We talked about our families. Two ladies mentioned they had three daughters, and I let them know how lucky they are. Having three daughters is so wonderful :) I would know since my parents have three daughters! The ladies waited outside for us to eat because we promised to buy something after our tummies were satisfied.
We ate at Baguette and Chocolate Cafe which is for disadvantaged youths. They had goat cheese on the menu! You have no idea how happy this made me! I ordered the vegetable sandwich with pesto and goat cheese. I savored every bite. Oh, the taste of goat cheese. How I've missed you. Lunch was great. As promised, we purchased a few handmade products from the ladies. They were very nice. At times it was a bit overwhelming. We continued walking until we were tired and cold. A bunch of us girls had a slumber party and watched movies and cuddles under our electric blankets. It was very cozy.
Our train arrived at 5:30 in the morning. Another bus met us and took us up the mountain to the village of Sapa. This village is known for it's amazing views. Our hotel in nestled on a slope, but the weather is crap :( It is so foggy; there are no visible views. Since it is cold and rainy, we drink endless amounts of hot lemon water with ginger and honey. Some of us decided to walk around. As soon as we walked out of our hotel the women approached us to buy items. They were all dressed in traditional outfits of their villages. Many of them speak four or five different languages. It was so nice to actually communicate with them. I walked with a few of them who showed us where the restaurant was in which we wanted to have lunch at. We talked about our families. Two ladies mentioned they had three daughters, and I let them know how lucky they are. Having three daughters is so wonderful :) I would know since my parents have three daughters! The ladies waited outside for us to eat because we promised to buy something after our tummies were satisfied.
We ate at Baguette and Chocolate Cafe which is for disadvantaged youths. They had goat cheese on the menu! You have no idea how happy this made me! I ordered the vegetable sandwich with pesto and goat cheese. I savored every bite. Oh, the taste of goat cheese. How I've missed you. Lunch was great. As promised, we purchased a few handmade products from the ladies. They were very nice. At times it was a bit overwhelming. We continued walking until we were tired and cold. A bunch of us girls had a slumber party and watched movies and cuddles under our electric blankets. It was very cozy.
Friday, February 11, 2011
LUANG PRABANG
(Wednesday) Another cold dark morning departure, but I was glad to leave that guest house. e were on the boat for eight more hours traveling to Luang Prabang. I'm a bit upset we didn't stop at Pak Ou Caves like we were supposed to. Our guest house here is rustic and charming. Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and full of simplistic beauty. There's a heavy French influence here. There are over 30 wats, and we visited one of the oldest together. A few of us gathered inside and listened to the monks chant. I was feeling a bit of furry when there was a couple in the middle of the wat disrespecting the norm of the scene. He had his feet pointing at the monks and directly at the Buddha while she had her bare shoulders showing. We have all been traveling and respecting the cultures we encounter. It's important to follow the social norms of each country otherwise locals view tourists as disrespectful and careless. Our group strives to make a good impression and adapt to the local culture when traveling. I really appreciate the emphasis that is places on how we dress and act.
We ate dinner at a restaurant along the river. I had a coconut and garlic chicken. The wait was worth every bite. Food takes a lot longer in Laos because the pace is very slow. I actually enjoy it. I don't feel rushed. I sip on my hot ginger tea to enjoy the moments in between. After we walked the night market. It extends far beyond my eyes can see and offers different products than I have seen throughout the trip thus far.
(Thursday) Today is a free day. I am loving the slow pace and the quaint town of Luang Prabang. Anastasia and I grab breakfast at a corner cafe. I had a Nutella crepe with bananas and a yogurt shake. It's about the only dairy I seem to consume lately. I need my probiotics so I sip the bitter drink.
We later rent bikes with Sam . Anastasia happened to bump into some friends from back home and decides to stay on the beach while Sam and I cycle. It was splendid. I forgot how liberating riding a bike aimlessly can be. The warm sun and cool breeze was set in a perfect combination. I felt so peaceful. We cycled the main areas then went off the beaten bath until we were the only foreigners around. The architectures is so rustic and beautiful. We stopped several times along our ride. There are so many wats that we took a few photographs and walked around a handful of them. At one we were able to sit down and speak to a monk. He is 21 years old and speaks great English. He taught himself by reading books. We talked about our families and our travels as well as the life of a monk.
We continued to ride into the late afternoon stopping for fruit smoothies along the way. Finally we found the old palace and walked around. The main rooms were elaborate and covered in gold. The furniture was lush and made of rich fabrics. There were murals and mosaics that added color and richness. The living quarters, however, were so bland and boring. The king's room was slightly more impressive than the queen's. The second half of the house was comparatively dull. The wat at the palace was very elaborate. Every square inch was covered in gold.
For lunch we decided to eat by the river again. The food was delicious; I had a spicy chili paste with steamed vegetables and sticky rice. Sam and I split a giant coconut that was filled with milk. When we were done drinking it we split is open and ate the white flesh. We went our separate ways until dinner time.
Many of us dined at the French restaurant. Isabel and I ate as many carbohydrates as possible. For once in my life I don't care what the scale says. In fact, I haven't even looked at one since I left home. I could gain or lose 10 pounds with no shame because the food is too incredible. I enjoyed every bite of the pizza and every spaghetti noodle. There were fresh baguettes too! I indulged on some homemade ice cream that was honey ginger flavored. It was so unique, and my palette is more than pleased.
My body is ready for bed, and I fall into a deep sleep. I'm abruptly awakened by our third roommate coming in at late hours and being loud. A few seconds pass, and I drift off only to be woken up again. This time I was not so pleasant as I heard her hurling repetitively. My first fear was where she was and whether or not she was puking on my stuff. That might sound selfish, but I feel no pity when you bring this upon yourself. The smell is so pungent that I begin to gag myself. She laughs; I want to scream. I make her clean it up yet 10 seconds later the lights are off. I try to filter the air through my sheet, but the smell is unbearable. I cannot handle it, and my anger continues to grow. I wake Blair up and crawl into bed with her because it is somewhat separated from the others. We both wake up yet again to the sound of vomit. A restless night in which I am not thankful for.
Many of us wake up early to watch the monks collect their food for the day. We line up on the sidewalk and sit down respectfully to observe this tradition. Some people try to sell us gifts to give to the monks, but I think it makes a mockery of the tradition. The monks come in several waves all draped in orange cloth.
Shortly after we return to the French restaurant, La Cafe Ban Vat Sene for breakfast. We order the Grande Set which was a delight. We had fresh orange juice, cappuccino, eggs, bacon, croissant, baguettes, fruit salads and homemade jams. Again I indulge and enjoy everything.
Later in the morning, we go to a waterfall. Isabel and I walk around and take pictures. We take a few moments to sit down and enjoy the sound of the rushing water. It's absolutely gorgeous. The water is turquoise. We must have walked for a while because we had about an hour left when we got back to our picnic table. There we ate lunch which comprised of an item each of us brought. I brought cake batter coconut that I found at the morning market. It was a good variety of items, flavors and textures. I didn't get into the water this time because I used all my energy to keep my eyes open. This just frustrated me even more. I would have had a perfect nights rest had it not been for my roommate. I take a nap when I get back only to be woken up by her again.
I crawl out of bed and take a nice, steaming and long shower. It helps calm my nerves before I wander by myself. For dinner most of us cross a bamboo bridge over the river to have a scenic dinner. Isabel and I split garlic bread with cheese for a started. It was so good; I ate each piece one after the other. The taste of garlic warmed by cheese melted in my mouth. The thought of it makes my mouth water now.
A handful of us continued our night at the Hive bar for Anastasia's birthday. I only stayed 20 minutes or so because I was yawning every two minutes. I could no longer stay awake or bare the stories that were being shared. My head needed a rest for the evening.
(Saturday) I woke up very early this morning. Everyone was still sleeping. I decided to go and enjoy breakfast by myself at the French cafe. I normally hate eating alone, but I am becoming more comfortable with it. Today I sat and drank my ginger tea while enjoying some French Toast and croissant. I read and wrote. Today we are leaving Luang Prabang. I would love to come back here someday. It's so mellow and slow. We are heading to Vietnam in a few short hours. We will take a flight to Hanoi and then a night train to Sapa. Since it is a communist country, there are many regulations. Facebook will probably not be accessible in most places. I haven't had any cell service in about 10 days, but hopefully I will have some in Vietnam. Hope you're all reading this in good health and good spirits!
We ate dinner at a restaurant along the river. I had a coconut and garlic chicken. The wait was worth every bite. Food takes a lot longer in Laos because the pace is very slow. I actually enjoy it. I don't feel rushed. I sip on my hot ginger tea to enjoy the moments in between. After we walked the night market. It extends far beyond my eyes can see and offers different products than I have seen throughout the trip thus far.
(Thursday) Today is a free day. I am loving the slow pace and the quaint town of Luang Prabang. Anastasia and I grab breakfast at a corner cafe. I had a Nutella crepe with bananas and a yogurt shake. It's about the only dairy I seem to consume lately. I need my probiotics so I sip the bitter drink.
We later rent bikes with Sam . Anastasia happened to bump into some friends from back home and decides to stay on the beach while Sam and I cycle. It was splendid. I forgot how liberating riding a bike aimlessly can be. The warm sun and cool breeze was set in a perfect combination. I felt so peaceful. We cycled the main areas then went off the beaten bath until we were the only foreigners around. The architectures is so rustic and beautiful. We stopped several times along our ride. There are so many wats that we took a few photographs and walked around a handful of them. At one we were able to sit down and speak to a monk. He is 21 years old and speaks great English. He taught himself by reading books. We talked about our families and our travels as well as the life of a monk.
We continued to ride into the late afternoon stopping for fruit smoothies along the way. Finally we found the old palace and walked around. The main rooms were elaborate and covered in gold. The furniture was lush and made of rich fabrics. There were murals and mosaics that added color and richness. The living quarters, however, were so bland and boring. The king's room was slightly more impressive than the queen's. The second half of the house was comparatively dull. The wat at the palace was very elaborate. Every square inch was covered in gold.
For lunch we decided to eat by the river again. The food was delicious; I had a spicy chili paste with steamed vegetables and sticky rice. Sam and I split a giant coconut that was filled with milk. When we were done drinking it we split is open and ate the white flesh. We went our separate ways until dinner time.
My body is ready for bed, and I fall into a deep sleep. I'm abruptly awakened by our third roommate coming in at late hours and being loud. A few seconds pass, and I drift off only to be woken up again. This time I was not so pleasant as I heard her hurling repetitively. My first fear was where she was and whether or not she was puking on my stuff. That might sound selfish, but I feel no pity when you bring this upon yourself. The smell is so pungent that I begin to gag myself. She laughs; I want to scream. I make her clean it up yet 10 seconds later the lights are off. I try to filter the air through my sheet, but the smell is unbearable. I cannot handle it, and my anger continues to grow. I wake Blair up and crawl into bed with her because it is somewhat separated from the others. We both wake up yet again to the sound of vomit. A restless night in which I am not thankful for.
Many of us wake up early to watch the monks collect their food for the day. We line up on the sidewalk and sit down respectfully to observe this tradition. Some people try to sell us gifts to give to the monks, but I think it makes a mockery of the tradition. The monks come in several waves all draped in orange cloth.
Shortly after we return to the French restaurant, La Cafe Ban Vat Sene for breakfast. We order the Grande Set which was a delight. We had fresh orange juice, cappuccino, eggs, bacon, croissant, baguettes, fruit salads and homemade jams. Again I indulge and enjoy everything.
I crawl out of bed and take a nice, steaming and long shower. It helps calm my nerves before I wander by myself. For dinner most of us cross a bamboo bridge over the river to have a scenic dinner. Isabel and I split garlic bread with cheese for a started. It was so good; I ate each piece one after the other. The taste of garlic warmed by cheese melted in my mouth. The thought of it makes my mouth water now.
A handful of us continued our night at the Hive bar for Anastasia's birthday. I only stayed 20 minutes or so because I was yawning every two minutes. I could no longer stay awake or bare the stories that were being shared. My head needed a rest for the evening.
(Saturday) I woke up very early this morning. Everyone was still sleeping. I decided to go and enjoy breakfast by myself at the French cafe. I normally hate eating alone, but I am becoming more comfortable with it. Today I sat and drank my ginger tea while enjoying some French Toast and croissant. I read and wrote. Today we are leaving Luang Prabang. I would love to come back here someday. It's so mellow and slow. We are heading to Vietnam in a few short hours. We will take a flight to Hanoi and then a night train to Sapa. Since it is a communist country, there are many regulations. Facebook will probably not be accessible in most places. I haven't had any cell service in about 10 days, but hopefully I will have some in Vietnam. Hope you're all reading this in good health and good spirits!
DOWN THE RIVER
(Sunday) I'm back at Boat House Landing sitting on the porch yet again. A butterfly is sitting on my knee as Noam and I relax enjoying a peaceful moment or two. We just returned from our separate treks.
I had a hard time sleeping last night as did everyone else. A bamboo floor is not as comfortable as a pillow top mattress. I woke up to the sounds and smells of breakfast being cooked in our hut and Hillary tickling my feet. Our breakfast was rice that had to be infused with some herbs because it was absolutely delicious. We also had omelets which were equally as good. They weren't as light and fluffy as the ones at Red Apple, but they were good! Last night around the fire we had Laolao which is homemade rice wine. It was good and much better than the one we tried at the guest house! Anyways we packed up and began our trek on a different trail. It was strenuous but good. This route was more scenic and led us in and through the dense jungle.
We were trekking at such a fast pace that we reached our lunch destination too early in the day. We stopped to cool down and play some games before continuing. The jungle was full of creeks and old growth. When we were finally ready to eat we had a table made of banana leaves again. To fill our bellies we shared fried Carp fish and green beans with freshly butchered chicken. Lets not overlook the sticky rice! I love this food. Eating a whole fish with your hands is quite enjoyable. I also like sticky rice because it's easier to dip into sauces :) We continued on until reaching our final destination, and now it's back to relaxation.
I couldn't sleep at all last night. I was constantly in the dreaming state where you're half awake and half dreaming. My mind would not shut off! Note to self: Take malaria pill earlier.
(Monday) We were supposed to take a boat down the Nam Tha River from Boat Landing, but the water levels are so low. Therefore, we had to take a two hour van ride along the river; shortly after our three day boat trip began. There were three boats that would hold five each including our bags. There was not much room for comfort. The boats were maybe 4 feet wide and 15 feet long. We sat alternating backs and feet so the weight was evenly distributed. They have been known to capsize. It was a nice ride today with the sun above us, but we could occasionally feel the rocks beneath us. For the evening we stopped at Ban Khone Kham Village. It is a village of weavers, and we are staying in the homes of our boat drivers. The sarongs the women weave are full of detail, an they're eager to show them to us. Of course we all buy the beautiful products. The details are so impressive, and the hard work is evident. They "mayor" gave Isabel and I a tour of the town. We were able to watch some of the women weaving as well as stringing thread. It's such an elaborate, timely and repetitive process. I'm not sure I have enough patience for such a craft. I'm fascinated. Dinner was simple and good tonight. We play with the kids for a bit with a yo-yo and other games. They are super friendly and energetic. The old woman at the house is a bit overwhelming with her sarongs, but she is precious. It's only 7:30pm, but we are all exhausted. Tomorrow we have an early morning on the river!
(Tuesday) It was still dark when we woke up in the early morning, but the village was already working. The women were gathering water to start breakfast and fill the bathroom tubs. Without food for ourselves, we headed to the river and boarded our boats just before 6:30am. The villagers were very nice yet some were pushy. Many of them view us as rich foreigners in which they can gain a profit from. Of course we all loved their sarongs and made purchases, but many of the women took it a bit too far. When Brent was leaving his hut, the woman grabbed him and told him he needed to pay. Of course the families had already been compensated for their hospitality. She was trying to get more money, but instead she made him feel extremely uncomfortable. These things happen I suppose. The village was beautiful and simplistic. While there I contemplated how long I could last. It's amazing how many things we fill our lives with in order to keep us occupied.
Off that tangent, the boat is completely filled with empty tanks and sarongs to be sold. Then there's us five, our bags, the boat drivers and four passengers we pick up along the way. It's cold. The mist stings as the wind blogs. The fog is so dense that it's hard to navigate the river. I am dressed in many layers and hiding under a tent I've made for myself with my feet and head using a sarong. It helps block some of the wind. I dose in and out of sleep. We stop along the way to eat breakfast a few hours after our departure. Soon enough the curtain of clouds begins to separate, and the sun begins to warm the air. At some point I fall asleep only to wake up to the pain of my nose burning. The temperature is quickly rising as we continue down the river. The layers slowly peel off. After eight or so hours we reach the Mekong River and transfer to a bigger boat. By transfer I mean handing over our bags and climbing through the windows from one boat to the next. This boat was larger and had space for us to spread out. We stop at Pakbeng for the evening and stay at a guesthouse. Our toilet is literally three feet away from the wall and directly underneath the shower head. It's an interesting design concept to say the least. Someone should have thought about that one a bit harder. We decide to go to an Indian restaurant for dinner which was good! I tried to get some cheese naan because I haven't been able to eat cheese almost the entire trip :( I miss cheese and this naan did not do any justice. Anyways, it's time for resting. Although we have only been traveling, I feel exhausted. I also feel like I'm still on a boat swaying.
I had a hard time sleeping last night as did everyone else. A bamboo floor is not as comfortable as a pillow top mattress. I woke up to the sounds and smells of breakfast being cooked in our hut and Hillary tickling my feet. Our breakfast was rice that had to be infused with some herbs because it was absolutely delicious. We also had omelets which were equally as good. They weren't as light and fluffy as the ones at Red Apple, but they were good! Last night around the fire we had Laolao which is homemade rice wine. It was good and much better than the one we tried at the guest house! Anyways we packed up and began our trek on a different trail. It was strenuous but good. This route was more scenic and led us in and through the dense jungle.
We were trekking at such a fast pace that we reached our lunch destination too early in the day. We stopped to cool down and play some games before continuing. The jungle was full of creeks and old growth. When we were finally ready to eat we had a table made of banana leaves again. To fill our bellies we shared fried Carp fish and green beans with freshly butchered chicken. Lets not overlook the sticky rice! I love this food. Eating a whole fish with your hands is quite enjoyable. I also like sticky rice because it's easier to dip into sauces :) We continued on until reaching our final destination, and now it's back to relaxation.
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| Lunch |
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| Devoured Lunch |
(Monday) We were supposed to take a boat down the Nam Tha River from Boat Landing, but the water levels are so low. Therefore, we had to take a two hour van ride along the river; shortly after our three day boat trip began. There were three boats that would hold five each including our bags. There was not much room for comfort. The boats were maybe 4 feet wide and 15 feet long. We sat alternating backs and feet so the weight was evenly distributed. They have been known to capsize. It was a nice ride today with the sun above us, but we could occasionally feel the rocks beneath us. For the evening we stopped at Ban Khone Kham Village. It is a village of weavers, and we are staying in the homes of our boat drivers. The sarongs the women weave are full of detail, an they're eager to show them to us. Of course we all buy the beautiful products. The details are so impressive, and the hard work is evident. They "mayor" gave Isabel and I a tour of the town. We were able to watch some of the women weaving as well as stringing thread. It's such an elaborate, timely and repetitive process. I'm not sure I have enough patience for such a craft. I'm fascinated. Dinner was simple and good tonight. We play with the kids for a bit with a yo-yo and other games. They are super friendly and energetic. The old woman at the house is a bit overwhelming with her sarongs, but she is precious. It's only 7:30pm, but we are all exhausted. Tomorrow we have an early morning on the river! 
(Tuesday) It was still dark when we woke up in the early morning, but the village was already working. The women were gathering water to start breakfast and fill the bathroom tubs. Without food for ourselves, we headed to the river and boarded our boats just before 6:30am. The villagers were very nice yet some were pushy. Many of them view us as rich foreigners in which they can gain a profit from. Of course we all loved their sarongs and made purchases, but many of the women took it a bit too far. When Brent was leaving his hut, the woman grabbed him and told him he needed to pay. Of course the families had already been compensated for their hospitality. She was trying to get more money, but instead she made him feel extremely uncomfortable. These things happen I suppose. The village was beautiful and simplistic. While there I contemplated how long I could last. It's amazing how many things we fill our lives with in order to keep us occupied.
Off that tangent, the boat is completely filled with empty tanks and sarongs to be sold. Then there's us five, our bags, the boat drivers and four passengers we pick up along the way. It's cold. The mist stings as the wind blogs. The fog is so dense that it's hard to navigate the river. I am dressed in many layers and hiding under a tent I've made for myself with my feet and head using a sarong. It helps block some of the wind. I dose in and out of sleep. We stop along the way to eat breakfast a few hours after our departure. Soon enough the curtain of clouds begins to separate, and the sun begins to warm the air. At some point I fall asleep only to wake up to the pain of my nose burning. The temperature is quickly rising as we continue down the river. The layers slowly peel off. After eight or so hours we reach the Mekong River and transfer to a bigger boat. By transfer I mean handing over our bags and climbing through the windows from one boat to the next. This boat was larger and had space for us to spread out. We stop at Pakbeng for the evening and stay at a guesthouse. Our toilet is literally three feet away from the wall and directly underneath the shower head. It's an interesting design concept to say the least. Someone should have thought about that one a bit harder. We decide to go to an Indian restaurant for dinner which was good! I tried to get some cheese naan because I haven't been able to eat cheese almost the entire trip :( I miss cheese and this naan did not do any justice. Anyways, it's time for resting. Although we have only been traveling, I feel exhausted. I also feel like I'm still on a boat swaying.
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