BUILDING MATTERS

(Wednesday) Last night was another rough night sleeping, but I woke up refreshed and full of energy. Today our group is split into two. We are doing two separate building projects. My group has seven members including Madeleine, Sam, Luke, Natalie, Anastasia, Brent and myself. After breakfast we began the toilet project.
We walked through the rice fields from the house to the site. We built a toilet at a nearby house so it was not a far walk. The guys had the hardest job carrying three 250lb cement circles to the site. It was tied with a rope and then strung on bamboo wood to help distribute the weight. The temperature was hot, but the sun was forgiving. The morning had been somewhat cloudy.
There were several families at the site when we got there. There was an old man who was practically folded in half because there's a piece of a bomb lodged in his spine. They were so kind and welcoming. I immediately felt comfortable. They gave us their blessing and thanked us before we started working. The old man told us that the Buddhists believe people who help build toilets (or other personal hygiene items) are meant to have long, prosperous and healthy lives. He spoke with such compassion, and I was even more inspired to start digging.

We had to dig a whole about 3 meters deep. The cement circles would later be placed inside to become a compost.  The digging was hard and strenuous. The tools used were simplistic and ancient. Our shovel was a piece of bamboo and metal. We took the excess dirt and piled it into a woven basket to be taken out of the hole. Within minutes I was drenched in sweat. It was hot and humid as I hunched over trying to dig. I had a lot of fun while digging, but we rotated every so often. I then started stripping bamboo posts. For the first time, I was able to use a machete! I felt my hands getting hotter and hotter until I had a blister in the middle of my palm. It had only been a half hour yet  I already had a blister. I ran back to the house to get my first aid kit, cut a piece of mole's skin and patched myself up. Within minutes I was back to work.

While working there were kids and puppies running around. Each of them were equally beautiful. Cambodian's are extremely beautiful. I think we are slightly obsessed with their perfect features and tanned skin. The kids loved the attention as much as we did. There was one girl named Jan who had the cutest smile. She acted shy, but she wanted her picture taken. The kids were dressed in tattered clothes and were full of dirt. The children had rotting teeth and home cut bangs. 

When the sun got too hot, we all had time to relax. Our group went back to Mach and Siphen's house for lunch. Of course the food was incredible. We ate so much and then wasted time on the hammocks enjoying some shade. Several hours later we returned to work. It was time to lay bricks around the foundation of the bathroom. The men did this part because it was "a man's job" whatever that's supposed to mean.
Instead of fretting, we pulled out our phrase books and began to interact with the families. The kids and adults joined us in a fit of laughter and learning. We asked what everyone's names were and then began talking about animals and foods. Afterward, we went over the months and days of the week. It was so fun saying it in English and then learning it in Khmer. The locals learned the English words and laughed at our poor pronunciation of the Khmer words. I was so happy. We bonded with this family on a much deeper level. I did not feel like we were building a toilet for some stranger but for our friends. I was extremely grateful for their kindness and hospitality.
Madeleine and I helped with the concrete mixture by pumping water from the well and carrying it over. Others collected bricks. When we were done with the water, I decided to collect some bricks. As I was picking up my stack a little gecko poked its head out. I don't think he would have enjoyed being sealed in the bricks and concrete so I shook him out. When the foundation was laid, we had to wait for it to dry. The guys then carried the cement circles into the hole. I think the girls are pretty strong, so I suggested we give it a try. Everyone watched with great enthusiasm when we counted down to lift up the 250lb monster. We were able to lift the circle off the ground and with some help transport it to the hole. I think we all patted ourselves on the back for that one. So much for a "man's job." They must have missed the memo that they had some pretty tough girls on site! Again, more laughter and excitement.
When our work was done, we retreated back to the house. I was sad to leave. This day was the most memorable day. It felt so good to give this family something of substance. In a few days, we will donate more personal hygiene products. Many families are ignorant to personal hygiene. My heart broke when I saw the rotting teeth of the little girls. They all pick lice and fleas off one another and use a bush as a bathroom. I was so happy they let us into their homes and stood by our side the entire time. The personal interaction was unbelievable. We broke the language barrier with as many smiles as possible. Their faces will forever be engraved in my memory. Despite their lack of money, clothes, housing, etc. they were full of life and spirit. Their smiles masked any hardships. I feel fortunate and continuously count my blessings on this trip. I find myself growing and learning from each experience and hope I can continue to have a positive impact on others as they inspire me.

When we got back to the house, Madeleine and I went to teach English at Siphen's after school program. There was not time to shower beforehand so we went all hot and sweaty from a day's work. We mostly talked about universities and our families. The kids that were there spoke great English. Despite taking classes in school, they come to this program to further enhance their skills. They were so fun to talk to and interact with. Some of them were shy, but Mads is really good about bringing people out of their shells. She has an electric energy that can make anyone smile. We all laughed and joked around. Mads and I even made fun of one another and started doing karate in front of the board. Our hour went by so fast. Siphen told us to assign homework, but they kept saying it was too easy. Either way, they didn't do the assignment but who's counting anyways!

Dinner was decadent. It was a bit lonely with just the seven of us, but we had a great time. For dessert we had a banana and tapioca soup with gummy worms in them. The little kids in us may or may not have come out to play. We slurped and gulped and laughed some more. It was the perfect day. I could not have asked for better company and a better experience. I was finally able to shower/ My hair is so dry and damaged. I've been using Dr. Bronner's for the past six weeks. I should have known something that has 18 different uses must not be very hydrating. I flipped my head over the trash and grabbed my Swiss Arm knife and began cutting my ends. I tried to go to sleep; however, my mind became a burden and sleep was not about to come easily.

HOPE FOR HAPPINESS

(Monday) Walking across the border I couldn't help but wonder am I in two places at one time or is this no man's land? I had my backpack on my back and my day pack on my front as I followed step by step in a single line. When we approached the wooden shack we got our stamps and crossed over the border. While waiting for a few others I decided to use the restroom. There was a restaurant across the street, and the man said I didn't have to pay. When I was done using it the girl asked for 500 Riel, but I explained I only had Dong or USD. The man started laughing hysterically asking if I needed toilet paper. I think he mistook my words. After an hour drive we arrived at Siphen and Mach's home for our home stay. I had no idea how much these next few days would impact me...
We were greeted with big smiles and snacks made of rice, coconut and bananas. Immediately I felt a sense of calmness and a great deal of happiness. Siphen and Mach's house is located in rice fields. On the property are a few houses and a small school. There's an outdoor kitchen and covered eating area in the center. A pond is set near the back and was created from a bomb crater. It's laced with fish and lily pads.

I was assigned a room in the guesthouse with Sarah while Noam and Anna were in the room across from ours. We each had our own beds and bathrooms so I was happy to stay there for the next five days. We made ourselves comfortable on the porch and read. There were a few chairs and a hammock. Cambodia is really hot so it was nice to relax and decompress. I laid in the hammock until dinner time. I could not stop reading. As the sun began setting, the cows and chickens made their way back into the barns. The bells around their necks chimed in a rhythmic manner. Another surreal moment.
Dinner was nothing less than spectacular. They prepared spring rolls, pork, rice, fried shrimp and onions and fresh fruit. We all dove right in for the mangoes. I helped myself to seconds of everything. The 15 of us (Hough joined us for a few days!) ate outside with such pleasure and enjoyment. Everyone was laughing and eating while enjoying the cool breeze even if it was coming from a mechanical fan. After dinner Siphen told us more of her family's struggle during the Khmer Rouge. One of her older brothers fled to a refugee camp and later went to America. For 10 years, her family thought he was dead. Another of her brothers had been killed during the genocide. Her story is amazing and encouraging to listen to. After the struggles and terror of the Khmer Rouge her family works hard to create a better future for Cambodia.
(Tuesday) In the middle of the night I woke up in a fit of panic. I couldn't see anything but could hear the animals and insects outside. Scrambling in my sleeping sheet I felt trapped and confused. There's only electricity when the generator is running so I forced my eyes to adjust to the darkness. When my tired mind realized where I was I went back to sleep and woke up the next morning without an alarm clock.
Breakfast included a nice spread that fueled us for the hot day. We went to Siphen's school in a truck pulled by a motorbike. It reminded me of a hayride except there was no hay and instead of a tractor there was a motorbike.

The school has gone under a few renovations and was pleasant. Even more charming were the students. The school teaches English, and we were able to interact with a few of the kids. First we went to a 9th grade classroom, but I chickened out of talking to anyone. I got so nervous and could not find words to make a conversation.
The next classroom was full of 12th graders, and I was practically forced to sit down and converse. It was a good push that I needed. I picked a row of three boys. They were very welcoming and engaging. One of them, Semae, stuck out to me. We shared stores and answered questions for almost 20 minutes. He was so enthusiastic and full of questions. His English was very good. He told me he wanted to go to a university but feared he couldn't because his family couldn't afford to send him to school. This is very common in Cambodia. Many families work in the fields and make little money. When I asked him what he did for fun he mentioned that he had no free time because of his studies. I was really inspired by him and the other students. They are eager to learn and wish for the opportunity to go to school. These kids want a better future for themselves and a chance at a career.
The most expensive university in Phnom Phen is $800 a year. After talking to Semae and later Siphen, I decided to help sponsor him. By providing grades, documents and other information, I will be able to help send him to a university and earn a degree. Talking to these kids really inspired me. I couldn't believe how much hard work and determination they have. To us this tuition is a small fee in which rent usually costs more than this. However, this is a lot of money for many people in Cambodia. Even the cheaper schools that cost several hundred dollars less are hard to afford. Siphen has offered to be the middle(wo)man and make sure everything is taken care of and both parties fulfill the agreed terms. I am really excited at the opportunity to help this kid. I normally prefer to spend my time volunteering instead of writing a check. This feels a bit different because I have had personal interactions with him. He moved me. I walked out of that classroom feeling inspired.
After our conversations we sang some songs. We tend to sing "If You're Happy and You Know It"even if we are all a bit old. Everyone got involved and clapped their hands or stomped their feet. Several rounds later, the students sang on of Cambodia's anthems. It was so beautiful. I felt as if I was daydreaming. They sang with such perfection.
When we left the classroom we headed to the library. There were many students reading in there. Books for Cambodia helps fill the room. The kids let us read some of the English translations before we head to the organic garden. The garden is ran by the Eco-Club, and the students are able to bring the fruits and vegetables home to their families. I love the skills that are taught and the opportunities that are offered outside the classroom.
The sun was so hot that we decided to have some sugarcane juice. There was a cart in which they crushed the sugarcane and drained the juice. Sometimes more sugar water is added. We drank it as is out of a plastic baggie. It was very refreshing. 

When we left the school we headed to a wat that Siphen's father had helped build. The kids followed us with curious eyes. Then we went to see a basketball game. Siphen's girls were playing a basketball tournament, and their coach is a Peace Corps. volunteer. When we pulled into the school everyone stood up and waved. It was so hot and hard to concentrate. The girls were playing in the middle of the day with clothes on underneath their uniforms. I give them a lot of credit. Despite the heat, they won!

After the game we went to the market. It was congested and filled with flies. I was intrigued by all the beautiful older women. They would stare at us while we stared back both with hungry eyes curiously observing one another. Their skin was darkened by the sun and set with crevices each telling a story. Eventually we'd awkwardly smile at one another and laugh in acknowledgment. We tried some potato patty and walked around for a bit before returning to the house.

The rest of the evening was spent in a hammock and eating. The food was unbelievable. They are spoiling us at this homestay. Of course we had seconds and even thirds for dinner. Afterward, we played some connect four. There was more reading and then it was time for bed. The generator turned off around 10:30pm, and the only sound was that of the great outdoors.

MEKONG DELTA RIDE

From our cooking class

Wood Carver in Hoi An

Cu Chi Tunnels

 (Sunday) This morning we left Saigon early. I was happy to leave. The city is overwhelming and did not leave me wanting to explore. Half of our group is also sick. We take a bus and stop at the "Happy Place"along the way. It's an area with lotus flower gardens and cafes. We primarily use it as a rest stop but take some time to walk around as well.

After another ride in the van we arrived at the Mekong Delta. There were bikes waiting for us. The weather was very hot. I lathered on some sunscreen which was SPF 30. Normally that goes against everything I believe in, but it's necessary around here. I am avoiding getting red like many others. The bike ride was beautiful. The smell of fresh floral surrounded us. There were banana leaves, tapioca plants, palm trees and flowers all around. At first I was a bit nervous and scared. We were riding along narrow paths that were full of potholes. The path was shared by motorbikes in both directions. When there's three or four feet of a path it gets a bit close for comfort.
The Mekong Delta is an extremely fertile area. The area is especially known for coconuts. We tried to stop at a few places that make coconut candy, but they were closed. Finally, we found one down the beaten path and around a corner. They had nice warm coconut candies for us to sample upon arrival. It was so decadent and chewy. It stuck to my teeth, but I didn't mind. I sampled all the flavors they had including ginger, chocolate, tea, etc. We watched the process from start to finish. It was a nice little break before heading out on our bike ride again.
About half way through our ride the path evened out, and the motorbikes lessened. The breeze felt great against the sun. We rode through rice fields and more gardens. It was the perfect afternoon. Around lunch time we took a boat to a small restaurant. The boat was loud and slow, but I passed out. When we arrived we had fresh seafood and a spread of other dishes. Of course it all tasted superb. Shortly after lunch I found my way to a hammock and took a snooze. It's so nice to enjoy a Sunday afternoon with the warmth of the sun and the cradle of a hammock.
We rode our bikes a bit longer until we came to a larger boat. It took us to our home stay for the evening. It was more of a guesthouse than anything. It was a "floating" guesthouse above beds of lilies and water. We shared our showers with geckos and  ate above the river. It was simplistic and homely. The fourteen of us were split into two rooms based on 80s and 90s kids. I swear, those 90s kids have missed out on a lot of great things :)

(Monday) We woke up bright and early to take the boat back. Along the way we passed the floating market. It was a bit slow since things tend to calm down after the new year. Then we transferred to a van to take us near the border of Cambodia. We stopped for lunch along the way and had more fresh seafood. I love all the seafood; it's so nice to have a whole fish to pick apart and enjoy. Our ride continued. I was tired and achy from being in a van for so many hours. I did manage to get a lot of reading done. I could not put down Into Thin Air. It's about the '96 Mount Everest disaster. I ended up reading it in two days because it was so good. The only time I stopped reading was when I had to. We were dropped off just outside the border where we grabbed our packs and began walking.  There were vibrant green rice fields that stretched to the far mountains. We were stamped out of Vietnam and began our walk to Cambodia.